← The Table · Go

Château de
La Rivière

The person who walks you through the house is the same person who spent years putting it back together.

Shelf
Go
Where
Pontgouin, Eure-et-Loir — about 30 minutes from Chartres
What it is
A 17th-century house with five guest rooms, on roughly 350 acres
The grounds
A moat, a lake, formal gardens, and an indoor pool in the warm months
Eat
Breakfast, and dinner at the house table if you ask for it
Go for
Two nights of silence; a family gathering; a wedding that isn't a venue
Don't go for
Nightlife, walkable towns, or anything on a schedule
Why it's here

Most old French houses open to guests are one of two things: a hotel wearing a château as a costume, or a private house quietly running out of money. This is neither. It is a building that was taken apart and put back together, slowly, by the people who live in it, and you can see the seams if you know where to look — which is the best part.

What stays with people isn't the moat or the ceilings. It's that nobody is performing hospitality at you. You are in someone's house. Dinner happens at a table, not a covered service. The restoration gets explained by the person who did it, in the room where it happened.

I've spent a lot of nights here. I've also shot here, which is how I know what the light does at the end of the afternoon on the west side — it's the reason I stopped photographing the façade and started photographing the windows from inside.

How I know it My husband's family owns and runs this house, so I am about as far from a neutral party as it is possible to get. I am telling you that because it is useful: it means I have eaten there in February with nobody else in the building, and I know which rooms are cold.
Also at the table

If this one is your kind
of place.

★ Going, or thinking about it

Tell them
I sent you.

Book directly through the house. If you're planning something bigger than a weekend — a gathering, a shoot, a wedding — write to me first and I'll make the introduction properly.

Ask for an intro→